Johann's gear - Nikon

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Johann's gear - Nikon

Nikon D4s

Nikon D810

Nikon D3x - sold: I loved this camera but the D810 gives me 24MP at a 1.2 crop setting, shooting at 6 fps (D3x gives 5 fps) and better high ISO performance

Nikon D4 - sold when I upgraded to the D4s for improved autofocus and higher frame rate with huge buffer

Nikon D800

Nikkor AF-S 800mm f/5.6E FL ED VR - a real gem for a bird photographer.

Nikkor AF-S 600mm f4G ED VR lens - sold: This is a great wildlife lens but the 800mm is lighter and sharper.

Nikkor 500mm f4G ED VR lens - sold: The 400mm f2.8E FL ED VR performs really well with a 1.4 converter.

Nikkor 400mm f2.8E FL ED VR - an amazingly sharp lens and weighing only 3800g - My fun lens!!!

Nikon 200-400mm f4 VR zoom lens - UP FOR SALE

Nikon 24-70mm f2.8 zoom lens

Nikon 14-24mm f2.8 wide angle lens

Nikon 1.4x series III converter

Nikon 1.4x converter : series 2 for sale

Nikon 2x series III converter

Nikon Speedlite SB900 with external battery pack and Better Beamer Flash extender

Several Nikon Speedlite SB 910's - having a few of these high performers opens up a new world...

Gitzo carbon fibre tripod with Wimberley tripod head

Panning Groundpod

Bean bag




Lizet's gear - Canon

Canon EOS 1Dx

Canon EOS 7D MkII

Canon EF 500mm F4 IS II lens

Canon EF 300mm f2.8 IS lens

Canon EF 28-105mm f3.5-4.5

Canon EF 1.4x and 2x Converters series III

Canon Speedlite 600EX RT with Better Beamer Flash extender and external battery pack

Panning Groundpod

Bean bag

Benro C3770T tripod



The ideal lens for Bird Photography

Let me start by stating there is no ideal lens for Bird Photography in general! There is an ideal lens for each individual opportunity! Budget and luggage restrictions will determine how well prepared you are for a given opportunity! Even if you have a 400mm, 500mm, 600mm, and 800mm lens you won't be able to travel with all of these and under certain circumstances each of these lenses mentioned could be the ideal lens. If you had to pick only one it would probably be between the 500 and 600mm f4 offerings from either Canon or Nikon.

I have owned and used the 500mm, 600mm and 800mm offerings from both Canon and Nikon, each had its pro's and cons. Presently my favourite is the Nikkor 800mm f/5.6E FL ED VR lens with matched 1.25x teleconverter giving you the option of 1000mm at f/7.1 - but with such a hefty price tag and the fact that you are limited to f/5.6 and a rather restricting minimum focusing distance it is not the ideal lens if you want an all in one solution. Before the 800mm became available from Nikon their 600mm f4.0 VR lens with Nano coating was my mainstream lens. If you use one of these for the first time it is not the magnification that impresses the most but their sheer size and weight! Canon has recently launched their series II white 'L' supertelephoto lenses with substantial weight savings - up to 30%. The series II 600mm f4 now weighs as much as the previous series I 500mm (approx. 3,92 kg for the 600 II) - making it a very attractive option if you shoot Canon. Taking everything into account the 500mm f4 is probably the best compromise. It can handle both 1.4 and 2x extenders very well and give you 500mm f4.0, 700mm f5.6 and 1000mm f8.0 and with a Canon 1-series body or Nikon D4 autofocus is maintained down to f8.0. Remember that all the other bodies need an aperture of f5.6 or wider for autofocus.

Even at 700mm f5.6 (with 1.4x) the 500mm is still hand holdable for short periods and can still give sharp results thanks to the Image Stabiliser (IS Canon) or Vibration Reduction (VR Nikon) technology.

Another point to consider is that of cropping. When shooting with a full frame sensor like the Nikon D4/D800/D3-series or Canon EOS 1Dx/1Ds-series a 500mm only gives an 8x magnification. This is rarely enough for birds except when working from a hide in which case a 400mm might even be enough. Most people however use a body with a smaller sensor - essentially cropping the image formed by the lens. Canon bodies mostly give a 1.6x cropping factor, with the 1D-series cropping only 1.3x and the 1Ds-series being full frame. The Nikons give a 1.5x crop factor or in the case of the semi-pro and pro bodies offering full frame.

This means a 500mm on a Canon EOS 7D gives an apparent magnification of an 800mm lens and married with the excellent 1.4x extender you have a whopping 1120mm still at f5.6! This is a magnification factor of 22.4x! This makes a huge difference compared to the days of slide photography when you would have been shooting at 700mm yielding a 14x magnification WITHOUT the option to crop afterwards.

Now with a full frame body you don't get the apparent magnification but bear in mind the lens is still giving the same optical magnification of the image when it strikes the sensor. If you have enough pixels on your full frame body you can crop afterwards to get the same effect BUT if you can get close enough so that you needn't crop that much then you get images with awesome detail and unrivaled quality! There is nothing like a 100Mb plus file filled with small bird detail!!

I haven't mentioned the 300mm f2.8 option but this is a very strong contender since it handles the 1.4x and 2x extenders/converters so well! You the have a 420mm f4.0 or a 600mm f5.6 retaining autofocus. You can then still factor in your 1.5x or 1.6x body crop as well to give a very usable range with much less of a weight and budget penalty!

When buying your first lens first understand that if you are serious about this hobby you will buy more... For your first lens decide whether you want to belong to the point&shoot clan with a few publishable images among many that are not so sharp or well composed OR to the all-or-nothing clan where you work out your shot and shoot from a well positioned hide in which case weight is not such an issue but quality is everything and you may want to consider shooting without an extender and filling a full-frame body! Car window photography in our game reserves also benefits more from the longer heavier lenses and can give many excellent results without all the effort of erecting and positioning purpose built hides.

Just rememer the more effort you put in the greater the reward!

I will attempt to add something from time to time...Smile



One of the reasons I crossed over from Canon a few years ago is the phenominal high ISO capabilities of the Nikon D3s. On many occasions this has made it possible to get really good images in conditions where the light was not strong enough to allow the shutter speeds needed for the occasion. I was reminded of this recently when we went to photograph African Skimmers Rynchops flavirostris. One morning we had lovely soft light which leads to very pleasing images but does not allow the high shutter speeds required for action photography. I pumped the ISO up to 1600 (Not that high and most cameras can get there BUT you wont get the same type of result as you see below!) The D3s simply takes this in its stride and yielded a beautiful, soft image with very low noise levels. Adobe Lightroom 3 was used for the post processing of the raw file and a little noise reduction filter applied. Bear in mind that this was saved as a medium jpeg...

Taken with a Nikon D3s with 600mm f4 VR nikon lens on a tripod with Wimberley tripod head at 1/2000 sec, wide open at f/4.0 ISO 1600

One afternoon driving along the Nossob river in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park we came across this Tawny Eagle sitting on the ground.. only problem was the sun had already set behind the dunes and there was no light... well there was enough for the Nikon D3s! I cranked up the ISO to 5600 and managed to get this shot at 1/160 sec at f/5.6 with the Nikkor 200-400mm f/4.0 VR and the 1.4x converter.. just to see how the zoom plus converter and high ISO would handle it.. decide for yourself Smile